Living it up

It took me a few hours to get on here today, as the browser is in Japanese and I just couldn't get in, but here I am now, and all is good. A very old friend, Fiona, arrived from Australia tonight and we have already gone and sampled some boozy bars up the road that I have had my eye on. The fellow who runs the place has seen me a few times and we have said hello, so we went there, and had a lovely drink and some olives. He had a Cat Empire cd he was thrilled about, and I suspect I know who gave it to him...Sean? It is a Spanish bar, and all the clients greeted us in a friendly fashion. Very smiley, and outgoing, but it is late in the evening. So happy she arrived safely, and now I have someone who knows me who can share the bounty!
Yay!
Looking forward to the next week of fun, and excitement. Have a few ideas in mind!
So I shan't be blogging as much...too much real life now.
Today I went to the Suntory Museum and saw a paper exhibition that blew me away...oh paper, such a delicate and integral substance in the world, made with such art and care. Some of the scrolls were fascinating. All of them were incredibly beautiful, but there were some stencils on brown paper that I have never seen the likes of and am still reeling from the amazingness. So delicate, yet strong. At the end of the show you could feel samples of the papers and I had no idea how thin many of the papers are. But they last hundreds if not thousands of years.
One thing I have noticed in galleries is the best pieces often have a crowd around them. You have to bide your time till you can get in and have a looksy. In all my life I have haunted galleries and the like but I have never seen people so possessed by beauty and an extreme commitment to studying it up close and at length. I admire the dedication and devotion immensely. You just have to have the time.
Anyhow bed now and I hope some sublime slumber so I can take Fifi touring tomorrow.

Revelatory beauty today

YES
Such beauty I was struck into stillness.
I could not move.
"No Photographs", but they didn't say, "No loitering", or "No drawing" and "No writing", so I did just that.
I stood in the Kiyomizu Kannon-Do temple, built in 1694.
I have never seen such a wondrous place, lacquered ceilings, open to the breeze, paintings, offerings objects, decorations, candles, inner and outer spaces...trinkets and statues, books, and framed leaves, a gold floating altar, layers of paper and cloth and matting, special and perfectly placed. I mean perfectly. It resonated so strongly in me, I can't express it. I think it was the perfect pyramid of apples on the altar, it reminded me so much of what I had been doing for so many years, and here was the source. A priest noticed me and when I commented on the beauty he did a deep, handsome bow, and put his hands together, I was overcome by it all and could barely look at him, he was so beautiful and humble. I noticed a Hiroshige print over the counter, of the place, and I had bought the same print since arriving in Japan, it is so perfect I wasn't able to send it to anyone. It might get damaged!
I stood in there for half an hour, enjoying the breeze and the fluttering light. I am not a religious person, but I am devoted to the peace that being in spiritual places offers me.
I am replete. This place is just incessant with it's offerings.
I stopped in the park and heard some marimba music playing, which I usually detest, but this troupe had some tricks up their sleeve; Herb Albert and the Tijuana Brass hits. I'm a sucker for the old Herb, and sat down on the kerb, only to be delighted further by a yellow balloon trick.
Walked down to where I could see the gates of another shrine, and it was deserted but for a lonely gardener doing his duties. I wandered from one area to another marvelling.
kept going down the path and noticed a park across the road, with a big lake full of giant human sized lotus stalks. And another shrine, in fact more than one, but I was getting overwhelmed. Watched the birds and fish for a while, enjoying the pleasure people had in feeding them. Stumbled on a flea market by the side of the river which was so great I couldn't take it all in, then reached overload.
Had a couple of hours to kill before my Yanaka club meeting so I went over there and rested in the cemetery on a grave. The stars were out and the new moon has risen, so I could see my way around easily. I just stretched and listened to music, and let the day pass through me. Existence, you can't slow it down or make it go faster, it just passes. All you have are the memories and the possibility for a warm future. So enjoyed feeling invisible and inconsequential in the middle of that ancient place, it was profound. There is no-one around after dark, so no-one minds if you lie down or do a dance. Speaking out loud is expected of you, and singing is great but I resisted coo-eeing.
Found my dance club, this time they did duets and solos. Very special, exploring time/space/process. I ran out of film just before their ending. Last time it was the batteries that let me down! I love having a job to do, and there I go being incompetent! But its fine, it means I can concentrate on their culminating moments with more intensity and enjoy that.
Then we went for deep fried kushiage. A sequence of mushrooms, onion, eggplant, wieners!, pork, konnyakyu and bloody blue box cheddar cheese come on a skewer, you dip it once in the bath of soy sauce, and have some fresh crunchy cabbage with it. Delish! Drank shochu and Hoppy, which seems like a non-alcoholic hops based drink. So complicated the processes here, I am glad they do all the ordering and tell me whats what.
Late home and smile on my dial. Fifi comes tomorrow night, and it seems I am set to host a Saturday event/party for the Yanaka family to meet her at my place. Izumi is bringing a tea set and is going to teach me tea ceremony! Cool.

Toba sojo/Chojugija: I love Japanese more each day

I thought I might get to some gardens on Monday, seeing as all the museums are shut, but there was no way, I was soaked almost immediately upon leaving the house, despite gumboots, poncho and brolly. Ended up just going to the shops and getting a bunch of groceries to lug home. One thing about this flat is it's too small to do a big food shop, small bar fridge, one food cupboard etc. I can't imagine how families live in the city, but I bloody well want to see.
Spent the day reading and trying to get a grip on the ancient art here, 'Important Cultural Property', I love the term. Getting lost in online scrolls, and marvelling at the calligraphy and the mastery of ink. I have a few bottles of ink, but am scared to open them, as I am a messy girl and don't know how to protect the house from my splatters! But this is the place to do it, so when I am in the right frame of mind, which is coming, I will begin.
I was reading about the spiritual world here, and how involved in sake it is. I have seen some festivities and the portable shrine jostling is a combination of ritual and drunkenness! I was wondering why so many of the carriers were smoking and literally carrying on, but now I understand it's because of the spirits they have imbibed. At the Meiji shrine, there are sake casks along the avenue, and spirits are literally alcohol. How similar to voodoo rituals and also Catholicism, booze is such a big part of the culture.
I got myself a bottle last night, I wanted to have some for Fiona when she arrived, but ended up cracking it open. It was Shoshu, made from potatoes I believe, and really reminds me of vodka. Made a hot dinner for myself and drank away, it was so cold outside, for the first time I had to shut the balcony door. I fear the weather getting too cold, I don't think I have enough warm clothes!
But today is super sunny, in fact the sky is bluer today than I have seen it yet. I am off to Ueno Park for some mass gallerying and then later a catch up in Yanaka with my favourite dance crew. For those questioning the style, the dance is very organic, and has different rules according to what they have worked out before. It is modern, and mostly quiet, except sometimes a bit of singing, and words from the prophet. It is elegant and amazing, believe me.

Attention to detail

TIME, a plastic word I made for the Yanaka performers, with Hiharu
I feel like this has been something I have been aware of since before coming, and every day the passion for those minute details is renewed. All the most minute things are thought through and considered. There is an importance to all things, and as I watched a fellow sweeping leaves near Meiji shrine today, I saw the broom was made of branches tied together with string, and his adept handling was as fluid as the wind itself, with no energy wasted, each sweep doing exactly what he wanted it to do. In the center of the path, a line of red leaves lay...above us, millions and millions due to fall. His path was beautiful, his actions reigned in and poetic. His fight never ceases.
A blur of noodles and sake and drinks has occurred. Yesterday it rained very hard and the cooler weather seems upon us now. I went to my friend's house for dinner, and I was served a feast of perfect octopus with tomato and basil, greens with mushrooms and garlic, Korean chicken with homemade kimchi and cabbage, natto, the crazy fermented soybean, then a soup made from the broth of all the vegetables and enoki mushrooms. Can I tell you I am in heaven here? Tasty things, textures and lightness and goodness. We talked about art and philosophy and listened to jazz, drinking tea and sake with the rain beating down on the bamboo outside and freshening the pond full of greedy carp in the courtyard.
I met up with the wonderful Jenny and Phil, from Oz today, which was so exciting, to see old friends and be with them for more exploring. We went to Shimokitazawa and just walked the streets, passing interesting things, and soaking up the atmosphere. I had seen these waffle like things in the shape of fish, but have sweet pastes in them, that are cooked on the spot, and bought them each one. The magic of smelling them cooking was enough for me, but watching the women hand trimming the edges with scissors really amazed me. They see more than 100 an hour, that's a lot of trimming!
No wonder there was a queue.
I see a lot of queues here. Very silently waiting for some door to open, what do I know? It could be a popular restaurant or a book signing...I am tempted to join the queue, just to wait.
The passion for fashion seems endless here, people dressed to the nnes, and I rarely see anyone adjusting their clothing, they look perfect all the time. Hair done just so, makeup, all their accessories placed in perfect symmetry. Only once or twice have I seen someone in sweats and thongs. Looking so immaculate, what is that? Is it because in a big city more people see you, so you want to appear up to date and perfect? It confounds me, the things I read about Japan and people not wanting to stand out, yet there are a whole swad of people who are definitely exhibitionists. Boys in skirts was on the front page of the newspaper the other day, and I have seen many in all sorts of skirts, not just kilts, and they look great. Mohan told me that a new 'whats hot in fashion' bible gets published every fortnight. Now there's a turn around! The clothes are so cool, I look in the windows and think I should get my sewing machine out.
Did I mention the sweet potato cake I was given last week that was wrapped in a couple of sheets of thin waxed paper printed with bamboo, them wrapped in beautifully printed stiffer paper, into a precise square immaculately with a sticker on it that had been stamped centrally with the time and date and a pretty picture, right there, perfectly and exactly. The wrapper was more expensive than the contents, and I was much pleased!
And I think the charms on the phones have to do with the old nasuke(sp) decorations that people would hang from their kimono belts.

Sheer delight

My fortune seems to be holding, each day a treasure beyond my wildest dreams. I think I have figured something out, no-one likes the mass cram business, and that's why the surliness and pushiness exists in the inner city. I have had some very nefarious exchanges on the trains and railway stations, and I realise the Japanese hate it as well. There is nothing they can do to stop it, and so the result is not very nice. Rush hour pushes everyone into such an extreme state, and everyone is overwhelmed by it. But as soon as I go to more quiet areas, the politeness and consideration returns. No hostility, and I think, oh, this is the true nature. Also on the subways its not as crowded as the trains, and it's downright civilised in comparison. I still get such a thrill though getting on with thousands of others, and being squashed up against hundreds of spunks, so close I can see their pores! Its just amazing at the stations, the herds of humans, and if there's a pillar, you can find a tiny bit of space behind, then you are safe, but you have to be quick to pop out when the train comes, or the stampede will prevent you from boarding.
I love it, but would hate to live here. My solace is in Yanaka, the very old part of town, where the streets are wide, and there are big trees and old houses, and this immense cemetery. Last night I went and videoed my friends dancing. It was so beautiful, I feel so lucky to have found them. We have so much in common, and tonight I am going to dinner at one of their houses. We went to a Chinese restaurant last night, and I ate raw potato and black duck eggs! Surprisingly delicious. I do not like Chinese sake though, it was quite vinegary.
The days are becoming increasingly cooler, and because there is no daylight savings here, it's getting dark much earlier.
I have been dabbling at home with the materials I acquired, and have been enjoying that process, I took something I made with me for the dancers and they interacted with it so beautifully, its just joy joy joy. I feel we are on the same wavelength in so many ways.
Tomorrow I get to see Jenny and Phil from Australia, and am so looking forward to that sharing.
What can I say, except the feeling of transformation is so intense and delightful, I am just smiling alone in my flat to myself and understanding a lot of things. My biggest breakthrough seems to be that a couple of weeks ago I bought some biscuits 'for visitors' and haven't opened them. I am sated by everything, and don't even care about them. My sense of fulfillment is so intense! What a dag!
I love you all!!!

Need a lot of beer now.

Went to Akhibara, the 'electric town' today. I am a little at a loss for words, the sickness that I saw...too much. Too much electricity, too much consumption, entertainment, sick plastic shit, crap and more shit wrapped in plastic. Women in bondage, in costumes dressed as little maids touting their flyers...urgh.
I couldn't believe it, just walked for a few hours, found a duty free place that sold what I needed, then got the hell out. I bought a sound recorder! I am thrilled, and how dare I put down other people's proclivities, it was just the immensity of the arrangement...vast...screens, cameras, you name it, if you can plug it in, it's there.
But it was all the model shops that really did me in. I only went into one, and just the first floor at that. Hundreds of plastic figurines, and so many of them were of women, with pink bits, s/m, totally brutal, and I couldn't face going behind the curtained area where I presume it got even more explicit. I didn't see any models of nude boys though, and I was sorry for that.
Jeez, need a big beer now, I am really drained. I might have to turn off the lights and contemplate.

A Japanese Story

Top; printed nature, along with the real stuff.
Bottom; newspapers in the garbage room.
One of the women in my class brought me persimmons and satsumas today. Persimmons are called 'Kaki', for those of you who want to know. I had been complaining about the price of fruit, and she must've felt sorry for me. Funny thing was the other night on tv, I saw an hour long game show all about persimmons, featuring guests eating various pieces! They grow here big time.
Today I saw the smoking police wandering through Takadanobaba, keeping an eye out for smokers, they spotted a smoker crouching, enjoying his fag, and one guy went over and crouched next to him, with a portable ashtray extended for him to put his fag out in. No words were exchanged.
There are a lot of officials here, with badges and caps and braiding, armbands all sorts of insignia. Outside one department store I saw 4 fellows, managing the driveway entrance, with great ceremony, they were waving their sticks, ushering both human and vehicular traffic. One guy did it with a special flourish, he reminded me of an acrobat.
On the way to work, in Shinjuku station, every week there is a different set of markets. Last week it was foodstuffs, the week before, potted plants. This week was lacquerware, and bamboo objects. I was overjoyed by the delicacy of the bamboo work. I had only seen a few things before, and here was this exacting craft, celebrating the flexibility, elegance and simplicity of such a wonderful natural material.
To contrast that, after class I headed to Shibuya, the heaviest pedestrian traffic area in the world. Crikey! Met up with Owen and went to Tokyo Wonder Site there, and got slag in my shoes and socks from walking on the art work. We had a tea, then he presented me with my first Japanese glue gun. We went to Tokyo Hands, and I won't tell you how much I spent on glue. On my way to the station I lingered and watched hundreds of tourists passing on the crossing with their video cameras on, the sight is so tremendous. Do I really want to capture such an oft captured sight?
I have been stumbling across some Ikebana displays that've made my toes curl. I am gathering together images, and think, I would like to do an Ikebana dance.
Just got home, had a tea, made some beautiful mushrooms with garlic and soy, buckwheat noodles, tofu and broccoli.

Two nights in a row of partying hard

Dancing in the dark, under the big trees
Feeling delicate now, not like a cherry blossom tree, more like a big bumbling sore footed bozo. Oh well, we had a good night, I am just paying for it I suppose.
Went to the cemetery yesterday, that's all I could think about all day, and I was so anxious and nervous before going, I thought, what if they aren't there, what if I can't find them, what if last week was a fluke...all what ifs.
Of course I found them, my nature lovers in the park, and will go back Friday to document the site that they dance, they showed me the site and the ruins of a large temple that had burnt down there.
A new woman, who's name escaped me came along as well, adding another note to the foursome. Morita Yasuaki (Morisan) is the choreographer, and Izumi Murata was there last week.
Last night I danced with them, in a bumbling insecure and very nervous way. My body...alone I dance, but to improvise with them, it was serious! I don't know how it appeared, but I was trying so hard, and in moments I felt bliss and beauty...it felt profound, but my self-consciousness prevailed, and I couldn't let myself go to the extent my heart was telling me to. I was trying to be subtle and contained, which is hardly my nature.
I quizzed Morisan about the elements of the work, and understand it involves Time, and the Body, in time. Quite Zen, in it's relationship with nature, and honouring that...it is a connection, and each performer tells their own story. I am so inept at transcribing other people's words, I am sorry.
We went to dinner at the same restaurant, and for the second night in a row I drank shochu, but this time watered down in a big glass of ice. I loved the curious tasting 'natto', that everyone has told me about. It is some fermented bean dish, and when you lift it, these delicate whispy strands fall from it. Never had anything like it, but I liked it.
We had a harder time communicating this time, but shall persevere. Izumi showed me her art work, and you won't believe it, but years ago we both did the same exact thing. In a performance, we both had inflated pillows under our clothes that we deflated. She is a fascinating person.
Below, Morisan, dinner and Hiharu Nomura.

Strange old day, but super as well

I had planned to do some video shooting today, and pursued that for a short time, but when the train pulled into Shinanomachi I thought I recognised the name from somewhere. I was wrong. It wasn't too bad, stumbled on a 1920's Memorial Picture Gallery that hadn't been bombed, and the bonus was they had the Meiji Emperor's horse stuffed in a cabinet right there, with the skelton in a cabinet facing it! I hadn't been to such a gallery before, and it's formality and quiet was very interesting. The displays here are so stodgy, all under glass, in cabinets hermetically sealed. But this was reverent stuff, and there were carved wood panels holding the paintings. I wandered into the basement, and once again was totally blown away by these intricate rooms with tatami mats and stone paths, all very old world tradition in the basement of a building. I don't know, I simply adore the feeling of complete and utter baffling incomprehension. It's so unusual.
Walked far and wide, finding a stadium and finally a wedding center, which I thought was the Akasaka Imperial Palace, but was actually a gigantic function's center! It was funny, as I got sheparded in through the front entrance, 'cos I'm a gaijin, and must belong there! I found a smoking area in this peach and pink palisade, facing a courtyard garden, surrounded by tinkling music and tea drinking on the balcony. Some old lookng traditinal buldings, and all this terrible piped music. Never have I seen such immaculate lawns and gardens, even birds were scared to land there. I finally got the nerve up to ask an official what this place was and he told me. My daftness knows no bounds.
Came home and relaxed. The phone went after 8 pm, and it was a fellow who'd gotten my number through Sean Cordeiro, who'd been here years ago. We made a date and met for drinks in Shinjuku.
I hadn't spent much evening time in that part, and was flabbergasted at the energy there. I can only say, if you have the money to come here, it is necessary to go there and see. It must be one of the wonders of the world! Mohan, an American lawyer, who had lived here for 5 years took me to an area that is just dozens of solid bars, tiny little ones that just fit a few people. It felt so like Melbourne!
He speaks Japanese, which is perfect, and we had some beautful beers and a bit of food, and this wonderful alcohol; shochu. A bit like schnapps. Well I love those clear spirits, and here you get a big tumbler full.
Hm. We only went to 2 places, but they both had tremendous ambience, and one had a sweet cat, in fact it was called "Pussyfoot".
Such a lovely surprising night, when I hadn't had anything planned, to spend with a nice gentleman.

Loving it sick

The other day I saw a Western looking man, older, with a big tweaked mo, a cream coloured suit, a stiff hat and a monocle. The Colonel I thought, looked like a really wealthy ex-colonialist, from an era long ago, but appearing to do very well for himself. There are so many different people around me, each with this deeply steeped history and story to tell. Today I just stood outside the station in Shibuya and soaked in the masses passing me. All that energy, all in transit. I have the capacity to look at a lot of faces, and I just took as many in as I could. I can't get enough of it!
I have the energy I might just go and soak some more of them in before I settle down for the night! I feel like one of the angels in Wings of Desire, but I can't hear their actual thoughts, fully wish I could though, oh, and understand Japanese. Or maybe like one of those monster creatures who suck the energy from living things...I don't know.
Went to Yoyogi park today for a picnic celebrating Owen's 30th. Lovely food and champers, surrounded by thousands of fun seekers. The roses were in bloom and we had a good sniff of those. Watching the passing trade, so much style! Theres some style gene here I think we are missing in Oz. And games, many games of all types, I looked around and there were countless balls in the air, Frisbees, bubbles, kites, skipping rope formations, badminton (I saw 20 different shuttlecocks flying all at once), many puppies, kids, hullabaloo...even the park is full on.
This place, wow. Sorry thats all I can say, its got me.

Off with your head, dance till you're dead

Yeah Yeah Yeahs filling my ears today.
Can hardly write, as my fingers are soaked in sake and joy; I had the most beautiful evening of my life. I have found myself curiously part of a dance troupe who perform every week in a cemetery on the way to a gallery I went to tonight...The Bath house, SCAI. A show by Julian Opie, he was there, and I met him, and his wife, and their golden haired peanut loving child, and then I met Rebecca Horn. Seriously.
The others from Tokyo Wonder Site and other foreign residencies were heading out for dinner, but I felt like just taking in this wonderful part I hadn't been to before, so I walked slowly, and saw some people performing some amazing dance moves, in the park next to the cemetery, and when they saw me, they invited me over and I watched them do some really incredible moves.
Simple elegant body manoeuvers telling these stories, oh I was entranced. Movement quiet in the night, extreme agility and focus, each replicating each other's and making adaptations...fully beautiful.
They just got me! It was all the way awesome!!!
They asked me for dinner, and we went to a wonderful restaurant and ate the best food I have ever tasted, but I was so in love with the three of them I just ate a bite form each dish and feel so full! We had such understanding of each other, with our broken languages, but I was just in bliss. I feel like my soul has been prized. Its this giant floating dream that is for sure, every moment just seems to be getting better than they last. The skin on my back is changing!
Anyway, they practice twice a week in that same place, and have been doing so for twenty years, rain or shine. Snow. They are called "original", and when we parted one of them gave me a little folder, I have never seen anything so beautiful. I asked if they always carried gifts around, and we all just laughed and laughed, 'cos we knew heaven and hell, and it's best to tread lightly. OMG! I am going back next week to see if they are real. We are going to practice some moves together!

Floating ghost must have entered me today

Fish food vending machine, sacred fish, a few rocks being perfect, and a few bonsai plants.
I had meant to just go to the museum of modern art in Takebashi, and the Craft gallery nearby that had been closed the other day, as it was so easy to get to, and I knew it would be open ('cos I checked!), and then come straight home. But I had some extra lightness in my step, maybe as the weather is cooler, but I was just streaming along, walking so effortlessly, after the most disappointing galleries I have seen as yet, I found myself in a huge park with wonder of wondrous nature all around me.
I kept going further away from where I had started, and it was great, I was in this huge park, next to a river pretty much on my own, and found a huge judo stadium, and the biggest steel temple gates I have seen as yet, immense, and the further I went the more spirited away it got. I am not kidding!
I began to feel hungry and there was an eatery with all old laminex tables and little stools that were so worn, I thought, the food must be good, if the stools are so worn. It was very spartan, and no menu in English, so I just asked for a fish soup, and he held up a tempura piece of fish so that seemed fine with me. I sat down and he brought me a tray with these wonderful green noodles and a broth I dream of making. It was the very first piece of tempura I have eaten here yet, I love it too much, and although I have eaten the other fried stuff, I have been scared of my appetite and it's many extensions. But this was sublime, all getting soaked in the broth, and turning into a thin dumpling, with just a crisp on the top...yum! Seaweed, shallots, a piece of pink and white stuff and an enormous tempura prawn, even though he had held up a fish. I wasn't worried, it was the most elegant meal I had ever eaten, and I felt so replete and fortified.
I kept on gliding, with new vengeance now, as it was late afternoon, and I felt like I wanted more and more. I got it.
There were vast wooden structures and spacious special buildings, I didn't know what they were for or anything, I am a twit, but I just wandered along, agog. One seemed like it was just a house for shoes. There was a big chrysanthemum display and also bonsais. I love that stuff, and was just so taken. The gravel was somehow not entering my shoes, I tell you, I was floating! (What I like about the gravel is that you can hear someone approaching.)
Behind this most beautiful of chrysanthemum temples was a garden like in the movies, that's as well as I can describe it, this enchanted grotto, with ponds, and slabs of stone paths, placed with such elegance and care, and little buildings, and many slab bridges, that went around, and toward a valley of rocks, I just couldn't believe my eyes, every step I took was bringing me more visual delight than I had ever had. THIS was what I came to Japan for, my true love! The careful placement of rocks is a very fine art. I am most interested in this, it seems so essential and getting it right, is paramount. Having sympathy with the singular stone is important, but in collaboration with what is around each one is just as important. I know it sounds like bullshit, but I am so into placement! No rock wobbled or was out of place. I have noticed that on footpaths throughout my month uneven surfaces exist. It seems like it is intentionally conceived that way. Maybe for the visually impaired, who I have noticed a number of. They don't have guide dogs here, (or I am yet to see one), it's just using a white stick...but the utility of the raised surfaces may also help with the all important drainage and slippage, and it serves to make one have to lift their feet just that little bit more to prevent stumbling.
I stopped in a little hut overlooking the water as it seemed there were more carp here to watch, and a fellow came up and started feeding the fish. I hadn't seen that he was throwing pellets, I was just trying to get a good photograph of the fish in the evening light, but I heard the noise they were making as they were thrashing around, and gulping at the surface in the most liquid manner, slurping and sucking, the water was boiling and seething. I turned around and he was smiling, and I took a bunch of photos. He showed me the "secret hidden vending machine" with food for the fish, and gave me some pellets. I was laughing because there were like 100 fish there, and you could see ones in the distance hurriedly hoisting themselves over as the tucker was on. So funny.
He said they were sacred to the temple, and only the best fish were chosen. Some were 20 years old, and massive.
I had found the delight I sought, and all felt good. I will have to come back to this garden, it was so remarkable, there were sword makers, and a tea house, and people in kimonos and robes, oh it was the most beautiful place I have ever seen!!!
Got the train home and it was 8:30, I had been out all day! I was passing the stand-up sushi place on the way, and I thought, hm, back in Australia I would be hard pressed finding a treasure like this. So I went in and and ate some raw things that tasted like they had only been swimming yesterday. Lots of ginger, a huge pat of wasabi and 2 green teas, for less than $20. Cool jazz playing, happiness.
I feel so fortunate. Thank you Australia Council.

Bit tired today

Can you see what I mean about the Excelsior Hotel's signage? Is it just me?


Had too much excitement yesterday I think. Hm, early night with Paul Auster book, which I am LOVING. Can't stop thinking about it! It's called Oracle Night, does anyone else read him?
Went to my little job today, I got them to talk about things they had read in the newspeper, and it went well and quickly. Then had lunch with Tamio on the 32nd floor. He is such a sweet man, he started to tell me, with this big grin on his face about a cancellation of a gig he was supposed to play, and how embarassing it was as he had already invited people. He was saying all this with such a smile, I wished I could have a party and book him in. It was sad. He also nods when he says 'no' and I find that disconcerting as well. Its so funny in the shops when the staff all greet you with this grinding moshi moshi. You don't say anything back, but they are acknowledging your presnece and theirs too I suppose. Such great tofu. The ladies told me about 'devil's tongue', which is basically a potato starch jelly that is very good for you and 'cleans you out'. So of course I had to try some, and it's pretty strange glutinous stuff. I may grow to like it.
Went to the park behind the offices and found some beautiful temples and bamboo. I tell you, the setting is amazing, in amongst these massive skyscrapers, there will be the most beautiful temple and cemetery, all tranquil and oldy-worldly, while the traffic speeds along outside. I love going in there, and experiencing the virtual quiet.
The sense of diligence was all around me today, from people waiting patiently for the elevator, to the park's greens-keepers, sweeping up the leaves with their twiggy brooms. Of course, it is autumn coming and they are fighting a losing battle, but the bare earth was covered with the squiggles of the rake like broom. Very wholesome. There were some window washers doing their work and below was a pegged off area, lest anything fell, and a guy with a helmet standing watch. There doesn't seem to be any skiving off here. In the cemetery there is a little open washroom with a sink and buckets, I have noticed this in all of them, and the collection of different brushes and sponges available for use. All different colours and very worn, but kept clean and tidily. I have never seen such civic pride anywhere. It may be an extravagant city in some regards, but in others, it just has to do with function.
I keep thinking about this older business man I saw yesterday, huddled in the bushes, hiding his cigarette. There was nowhere to smoke that I could find, and he was desperate. I am accustomed to the airport smoking hellholes that exist, but here it is almost as bad. It's weird, you can smoke in bars and restaurants, and Pachinko parlours it is almost mandatory, but on the streets, it's a big no-no. But when there is a smoking station, there are all these addicts sucking away madly, it's really depressing, rarely anywhere to sit down and these big ashtrays full of floating butts. I understand that the authorities want us to suffer, a penalty for such a filty habit...Ciggies are very cheap here, the cheapest I have ever seen, and there are a lot of smokers, I mean addicts.
Tried some ice cream tonight, yum, had a wafery one, very crispy waffle on the outside, lined with chocolate and vanilla ice cream on the inside. Good stuff.

Haha, they got me again!

I was buzzing today, had a call from the wonderful Elvis this morning which made me soooooooooo ecstatic. Then I just took the plunge and bought new music from the I-tune store online! Believe me, its a first, I only got 5 singles, but was I rocking? Yes, my dears! Rocking out! I got a Sylvester tune, The Stranglers, something by T-rex, a Metric piece and someone I don't know who, but I love the song. It was so good to have new music!
I zipped over to Takebashi, all maps in hand and found the museum right away, but it was closed! I swear, they pick the dates out of a hat! Did not matter one bit, I had the Imperial Palace grounds to peruse, and I walked for miles, what a lovely sunny day. I smiled at everyone, and people smiled back. It was great. I was drinking from a water fountain when I heard someone say (in german); "uh-oh, now there will be none left". I looked up at him and answered back, in german, "there sure is, plenty for all" (you old coot!). He was so surprised.
I found myself in Marounuchi, a very boring financial district, but I discovered the Japanese Film Archive, and spent an hour in a very comfortable room, watching silent movies of the early days of Tokyo, 1920's and 30's. Enlightening to see the old ways, and trams, and daily wear. The hall was full of elderly people, who were viewing their own ancestors, I felt very moved.
I'd seen notices advertising a free shuttle bus in the area, and just wanted to stay seated, but it was very boring, loitering outside the stock exchange. People with money have limousines parked waiting for them, with the drivers dozing in the front seat. I haven't been in a car for nearly a month, I realise. I would love to drive around the city though, get to see it link up.
Got off the bus and kept walking, and found myself in Ginza, where I had been before. It was so good to find a place I was familiar with, and have the city finally link up in a tiny way.
I found the Hermes store easily, it was getting dark and all the fabulous lights were on, went to the gallery there, pretty so-so. Then I wandered and stumbled on the Shisheido store, which I had wanted to visit, not for the cosmetics, but the gallery was great, and it was show of (drum roll) women artists!!! There was some really great work in there, but what I liked the most was a light that had been blocked out, for the sake of the art, it was all boarded up, but the light still shone through the slits...
Found a toy shop and wonder if I can buy this sweetest stuffed animal I have ever seen, that costs like $100...oh, it has wrapped it's furry body around my heart...I also saw stuffed toy poops, one of them had a string you could pull and it vibrated!
What a day! So happy.

I found my shopping gene again!

I was in a retail wonderland today, full-on amazement, and absolutely dumbfounded at the sheer level of it. Disbelief. It was 100% goosebumps today, hitting Shibuya for a spot of shopping. I thought I should go to some gardens today and get some nature, escape the frenetic pace, but then I needed a new pencil so I thought I'd pop into Tokyu Hands first, and I'd heard there was a really good shop there, the original one.
Let me tell you, that's not all they have in Shibuya! It is awesome, with more people than I have ever seen, just masses crossing the streets from all directions. These are the customers that the shops provide the choices for, and the place was retail mega-overload. I just couldn't take it all in! No way! I went round and round the massive pedestrian crossing like a big dummy, just for the thrill of crossing with so many thousands at once, in so many throngs and such magnitude it was akin to going to a (large) demonstration and marching the streets with your fellow sympathisers abreast. But this was for shopping! By evening it was even more intense, way more, as the workers were arriving to do more shopping! I thought London was full-on! Here there are so many screens so many images, so much sound blaring form everywhere, and yes, I saw the light-box trucks, advertising their shit...I couldn't leave, I kept on thinking, just one more shop! I saw the most fantastic displays I have seen in the whole world. I touched the softest things that exist on the planet and I bought some books from an English bookshop. Oh, it was SO cool. Each place I went into was selling way out useless acquisitional things...I wanted so much! It's quite terrible really.
I really detest mass consumption, it is such an issue on our planet, but here it is so full-on, so all-encompassing...such choice, such a entire range of everything...I don't know, my purchases were just small and discrete, I could've lived without them, but I kept thinking, hell, I might as well! Whens the last time I got to go to Tower records? When will I ever be in Tokyo again? I don't need any thing!
I am thinking about the sense of fulfillment that comes from shopping and acquiring newfangled goods. I see couples shopping, debating over items that they are going to have in their lives. I have never had much money, so I have always had second hand, or made my own. But even at Tokyu Hands (a DIY superstore), so much is ready-made. In buying something, anything, I log myself into the maelstrom, and become one of the tribe. My money is accepted even if the sales people don't like the cut of my Gib, so to say. I recall in NYC the attitude of some of the salespeople, it was off-putting, but if you had money you could go and show them, 'fuck you I can afford to buy this! And I'm gonna!' I wonder how many people feel their lives are quite empty without their purchases. I felt sad in one superstore, buying just one great thing and taking it home would make all your home look impoverished. You needed to have everything in the store, that's how it was laid out. 'This is you'. Well it was me, but nothing fit and the scarf I looked at was like $500, so no. I will have to just copy it, using my ingenuity and keen eye for forgery.
But it's the choice that I see that really engages me. I need earplugs, they don't just have 5 types to choose form, there are 50 different ones, if not more! In Australia, the market is so tiny, yes we Sydneysiders feel its very crowded, but the fact is the city is built for only a small populace. I see Tokyo as too small to sustain this mass, but it just works, I guess it has to.
I finally found some real muesli, now that I needed.
My feet are so tired, my whole body aching from the intensity. Big yoga tomorrow, and truly I shall find some gardens and do like Buddha, but I am in awe.
The funniest thing was at the end of my visit there, trying to get into the train station, I got stuck in a throng of Westerners all stopping to look at something. It was the famous dog statue, just that, like the bloody dog on the fucking tuckerbox causing this serious people jam of gawkers! I laughed so hard I had to run and get away from them.
I really miss having someone to share this all with, in real life, can't wait for darling Fiona to come in just a couple of weeks! Have I got some things to show you!!!

Edibility in Ikebukuro

Went to a festival in Ikebukuro, an area very close by. Was concerned about finding the goings-ons, but needn't of, because immediately on ascending the escalator out of the station I was assailed by this blast of pumped up old tunes, synthesised with big techno beat and really really loud. There were flags the size of buildings being skillfully handled, in fact everything I saw today was in order.
There were thousands of performing troupes, literally, in the best costumes everywhere I looked, and all around me performances happening simultaneously for about 4 city blocks. I kept on going and there was more, an absolute cacophony of sounds, and sights, non-stop hurly burly! I didn't know where to look, I took about 200 photos! It was amazing, the shows. I loved the flag twirling, and when the flag passed me whipping in the breeze and rippling it was so very beautiful and moving, yes, it made me cry. I wasn't the only one either, the music was so emotional, it was this tear jerking beauty. Wow.
Then came the stalls selling all sorts of delights...I ate some round blobby things with mustard on a stick, then some bigger round blobs that had been smoked in soya sauce, with seaweed, also on a stick. I couldn't resist a perfect rectangle of ham smoked in teriyaki on a stick, and then came the meat, I think it was deer cubes on a stick, super yum.
I drank cold mulberry tea and felt the fresh silk 'cotton wool' they sell to cleanse your delicate skin with and played with the wooden clappy sticks all the performers had. Rich rich rich.
I noticed a giant building near one of the stages, and it was the Metropolitan Arts Centre, so I went in there for a gander and rode the most gigantic suspended escalator I have ever been on. It was stuff from my nightmares, but I did it! Upstairs was a big quilter's show, not my thing but still impressive. All that mattered were the performers who were everywhere, in their beautiful costumes, wandering around in big groups, eating drinking and enjoying the outing. I couldn't believe the synchrony when they were performing. This was no casual show. Every one of them, from kids as young as 5 taking it very seriously, having practiced a lot. When the show starts the smiles come on and it was all go.
What a day! I got propositioned by a very strange looking man, who might've been drunk, but I got away from him as fast as possible. I got very rudely shoved (or she tried to shove me, but me don't move), but it hurt. Oh well.
Ikebukuro was the first area I have been in with a red light district and I went past a few sex clubs, with "Japanese only" signs. One place was called "VIOLENCE". Some of them had funny glittering doorways, really narrow, with screens, so you could duck in and be hidden immediately. One place I could just see into had little booths and a picture of a dolphin outside, I hate to think of what went on in there! One tout saw me taking photos, and I thought, 'so what'. There were thousands of people around, photographing everything everywhere, I was just one of many.
Came home very foot sore, and ate big slabs of raw tuna and shredded daikon with wasabi, ginger and soya sauce, and a huge green tea. Felt very replete.

3 weeks

Yuki Kimura at TIG

Owen Leong over the grill

I cannot believe it is only 3 weeks, it feels like years! I dream at night of life in Oz, such vivid dreams, it is quite disconcerting to wake up and see Japan from the window. But pleasing as well.
I found that I have been using the free train map made by Japan Rail which only lists some of the train lines on it, no wonder I was so confused by the business! Today I had a comprehensive map, and I realised just how mega complex the subways plus all the other lines were. I saw that I had been taking much longer more roundabout routes than need be, for not checking the subway guide as well. Yesterday I got well and truly lost, I am so sure it's 'just up the road', but the roads go on for many miles! Oh well, I still get to see great things, and I love seeing everyday life for locals.
I had been to a police box and got pointed in the right direction, but it had gotten dark, and there was no end in sight so I asked a couple of people. Finally one knew where it was, and he got off his bike and walked me there, such a sweetie.
People don't always look very friendly, but once you ask them something and engage with them, it's like their heart comes out. and 9/10 will go to extreme lengths to help. I have asked some people for directions, and their English hasn't been too good, but they look like they are going to cry from the strain of wanting to help.
The galleries were in a big warehouse, opposite a giant apricot coloured concrete works. Cool industrial. There were 3 floors, and about 5 openings, but only one was worth my while, a beautiful woman; Yuki Kimura. I understood and identified with the work very much. I met a few people who gave me their business cards, and one really nce galleryist, but mainly I just loitered, people watching in such a perverted way, listening in on conversations and the suchlike. There were quite a few Westerners and they stick out like a bunch of weirdoes, myself included! Fascinating. There was Aussie red wine, and I only drank one glass, but it was like whiskey! I got so drunk! I haven't had a single wine since being here and had forgotten how potent a drink it is for me...
The people I was meant to meet were late showing up, and I was so prepared to split, but did not want to spend the evening alone, so I waited and they finally came. We went to an okonamaki place (Japanese pancake) afterwards, one woman who was with us from Tokyo Wonder site, very nice and able to do the ordering and most of the cooking, bless her, even though she didn't want to! A Dutch architect, Owen Leong, Dinh Q Le and Angel Nunez. It was a sit on the floor place, and quite cramped, a few times I thought my body would just explode from the tininess! They gave us plastic bags to put our jackets in, as it gets very steamy with all the grilling on the table. Funny, its the sense of order and consideration that I notice everywhere. There was cool jazz music playing and when I went to the toilet, it was so beautiful, this amazing wallpaper and flowers in the sink, and they have special slippers for guests to wear, just for the toilet! We had a fine time cooking our own damn food, which was totally delicious, and drinking a lot of sake. Two of the guys were real history buffs, and they just argued while I watched the gorgeous young waiter and the other patrons, concentrating on the sake, so pure and nice to drink, like kirsch, but not as harsh, and not letting my feet go to sleep. We went quite late, and nearly missed the last train home. Its funny here, the trains finish running mostly at midnight! I was a bit pissed and when I went to make my last connection, I went in the wrong direction. Luckily I realised my mistake, and just got the very last train.
(I know, boring, but in a strange city, scary!)
I am off today to Ikebukuro, for some more dancing in the streets. What sights await me? Cheerio!

Tokyo Bay day

Bridge under construction

Didn't have a smidgin of fish yesterday, so to correct the imbalance I got up really early and made my way to the Tsujiki fish markets. I got to experience the morning crush hour, but made it intact. I was the purve rubbing up against people! Got to the markets and all I saw was uproar, many tiny vans and motorised carts, lots of furious movement, and a faint smell of fish somewhere locked in a styrofoam box. You need to get there really early to see the actual fish. I found a few sushi bars, but the good ones were packed with a queue outside not worth my while. So I just soaked in the atmosphere and wished I had brought my video camera.
I started walking up a river, the Sumida, I believe, and what do you know, a river cruise boat came in just as I approached a pontoon! They didn't speak English and I just bought a ticket for I don't know where, but I would find out! Had a terrific time on this virtually empty water bus, on the brown water of the bay, hooning along past amazing buildings, and up canals, and under bridges so low, I had to duck. I have new wrinkles from grinning so much. It was great to smell the ocean air, even though it was far away, it was still open, and briny. It was even greater to see some of the far out buildings they have here, and the engineering feats of such magnitude. It's enormity never ceases to amaze me. It was a good hour till they kicked me off, in some park, way away.
I walked through the park, which turned out to be Kasai-rinkai Koen Park. I finally discovered the flower which I have been smelling since coming to Japan, this tiny orange coloured bud which grows on bushes, and smell deliciously refreshing and beautiful. Have never seen it before, and brought some back to scatter in my Ikebana arrangement.
Found a ramen restaurant, only noodles, and it was one where you purchase a ticket form a machine first, then give it to the waitress. I guess it helps streamline things. Yummy noodles, as always. Lots of splashing and slurping! There was a big McDonalds right next door, in fact these were the only 2 restaurants I could see in the vicinity, and I noticed how many more customers chose Maccas. Sad. From the train station I could see the horrors of Disneyland in the distance, it looked exactly like Jurassic Park, with an ominous manmade volcano.
Got the train back to Tokyo, over these vast railway bridges suspended over the river, cool! And then I truly alighted in Tokyo station for my very first time. I think Tokyo is actually one big station, 'cos I walked about 2km underground (all on the joyous travellators), and never saw anything else. Only about 1 million people...I was just grinning the whole way, it makes my scalp tingle from thinking about it!
Was exhausted when I got back to Taka. and went for an espresso up the road. I have become fond of the coffee shop, and decaf doesn't exist here, but these guys make a mean espresso, and it feels like a bit of home whenever I drink one. Did some shopping and came home and cooked. I had canned tuna!
Each week I have soaked and cooked a different variety of beans. I don't know what sort they are, but you can get a big bag, and they don't cost very much and make a great dish accompanying all sorts of things.
So the weekend is upon me, and I have been looking at some festivals to entertain myself with, and dear Owen has asked me to another opening tomorrow night, lets hope I make it there!

Ikebana

I had the height of arrogance, believing that the Ikebana school could teach me nothing and I was wrong. The mathematics of it surprised me, and the Master, Fukuchi, made small but impeccable changes to my arrangements, making all the difference. Theres a bit of butchery involved, discriminately cutting up the plant life, while at the same time trying to emphasise the true nature of the plant's form. Subject and object. It was all ladies, and I felt very ladylike, geisha classes next week!
The typhoon didn't amount to much in our area, it fully poured last night and blew big winds, but had died out before it got here.
The fear mongering on tv was as good as it gets, and there were shots of every broken window, tree down and water levels rising. The reporters all had safety helmets on. In town, some trains were affected, and for the first time I saw disgruntled passengers, put out by the delays. Also some very harried station staff.
Yesterday we were talking about the Japanese sense of space, and one guy reckoned the Japanese ideology was making space for everyone, whereas Westerners like their own individual space. I have been elbowed a few times, needlessly, and it feels so wrong, such an invasion of my person. Today a woman passing me on the escalator was really sharp, and it put me offside immediately. Akin to getting a smack when you are a kid, for failing to stand aside. I am really trying to be cool about it, but I want to beat something up!
The women on tv are very submissive, and girly. The men run the show, and sometimes the chicks never say a thing, they just tag along, smiling and bowing. In the museum yesterday, a few women were represented, a Pipolotti Rist and a couple of other women. Pipolotti's work was cool, no sublimation, but there was other work by women, all effeminate nudes and then there were men's works about women, in bondage gear and sexily dressed, chained to a toilet, curled in a ball in a bowl! Seriously. What are these messages they are sending out about women?
Fuck!
It makes me angry. I read about men all the time, their power and achievements. The tide has not changed.

Typhoon warning!

Even the lockers have the wave printed on them!
It is certainly blowing outside, and plenty of people have mentioned it, hm, lets see if it's fear-mongering, or actual...I have my first Ikebana class tomorrow, so I am hoping it's not too drastic, or how will I get my masterpiece home?
I have had a wonderful day, was fearing it but it went so well. First had my English class in Shinjuku's Tokyo Gov't offices. Shinjuku is enormous, the station vast, with so many people and such extreme pedestrian traffic, but I knew the signs, and found this incredible moving walkway, as the office is 2km from the station. Anyway, I had some music on my Ipod (not Elton for once), and steaming along this really bouncy travellator, so high tech, and cool, I had such a grin on my face, I was moving FAST, so that was a buzz. Plus as it was poring, it saved me from wet feet. I arrived ten minutes early, and went up to the 16th Floor. There are no signs in English, and basically miles of these shiny very beige hallways, with an occasional door, but completely impersonal and innocuous, and I waited, where I thought I should wait, till right on the dot of midday, and the people from my class started to arrive. I was shitting myself that I'd screwed up, but it was fine. I was asked to talk about myself, so an hour went past very quickly!
Then I raced over to Shinagawa station, another gigantic train stop, where I met up with Owen Leong (Aus video artist) and three of his mates from Tokyo Wonder Site. We went to the Hara Museum, a beautiful space, with a lovely garden, and some great art. I really enjoyed going there and hanging out with the boys, and just talking about it all.
Then I had to get back to the Government office for this mysterious party I had been invited to, and I was pushing time to get there on time. A Goffman can really hustle, if need be, I thought I'd had it figured out, where the travellator was, but couldn't find it, but of course I got there via another vast underground system, and it was fine.
Because of the rains a giant homeless city had been built, or maybe it's always there, all lined up mats, and tidy folded bedding and bags. Very civilised, except the bright lights, cold, no toilets, or any other amenities...
We went up to the 32nd floor, where the cafeteria is, but at night it gets converted into a restaurant. Tamio had booked a table near the window, and there were only 6 of us, but that was a good number. They brought this strange contraption and placed it on the window sill, I said 'oh, hot pot?', and Tamio grins widely, 'No, tower of beer'. And indeed, a 4 liter glass tube of beer is then carried by this woman (in a most unwieldly fashion), and places ceremoniously on the rubber tripod.
They ordered all sorts of beautiful tasty things to eat, including french fries, cheese and pizza, but I stuck to the more Japanese dishes, and the tower was soon empty, along with a few pitchers, and some glasses. They delighted in getting me some cold tofu and insisted I eat it all. No problem, it was delicious, with some bonito flakes, ginger, shallots and soy...heaven.
Such funny conversation, I had more than a few flashes of "Lost in Translation". I am half deaf as it is, and things got pretty rollicking up there on the 32nd floor after dark, and when I can't hear the 'r' in words, I don't know what they mean! But it was all good.
Came back to Takadanobaba, enjoying the beer and food I'd consumed, and the neon in the rain is just so unbelievable. I feel enchanted, and like it's all this amazing dream which will be over too soon.

Asakusa rocks

I wasn't prepared for it, but was very pleasantly surprised. I got out at the station and went through a department store basement, it was pre-lunchtime, and I was in the prepared food hall. Let me tell you, nothing in Australia compares to this, its just gigantic, full of the most impeccably prepared foods, and many many things I have never had the pleasure of eating. They were giving away samples and very friendly so I had pickled baby eggplant, and turnip and some dumplings and bits of dark coloured things that tasted so good, and I tried to get him to tell me what it was and he kept gesturing towards my stomach, and I couldn't tell if he was insulting me or what! It was so much fun, I felt like I'd had enough adventure to last me a lifetime, without leaving the shop!
Then I went outside and wow, millions of stalls selling the real touristy stuff, but I don't care, I love; kimonos and all the fabrics, origami papers, anything Hokusai, porcelain ware, rice crackers, laquerware, the cute thongs, the cute things you hang on your phone, the fans, the toys, the miniature models of everything, the hankies, the stuffed toys, the biscuit shops...everything. And it went on for miles. I just wandered, not buying anything till I came to a rice crispie shop where they were demonstrating their skill at making the yummy sweets rice crispy bars, I forget what they are called but I had to buy them, so good! And so lightweight, they can't possibly be fattening.
Went to a sushi bar for lunch and ate 6 plates, watching the chef do his work with his eyes closed. So fresh, so good, I am crazy for it. Ginger, wasabi. raw raw raw!!! And it was cheap, I was stuffed.
Then it started to rain and I was at the point of going home, till I noticed a big gate. OMG this huge famous-as shrine, I don't know what is wrong with me, but I am lucky I have eyes, or I wouldn't get anywhere, the biggest pagoda I have ever seen, and lanterns, and buddhas and all real. How can I express my love for this stuff, those roofs, tiered up like that, so ornate, they fill me with joy. There were lots of people and noise, as one temple was being re-furbished, and I just stayed still taking it all in.
Its funny how I will see a group of tourists somewhere and then keep seeing them around, I am so familiar with Western faces, they stand out to me. I still avert my eyes though. I am not going to go up to them, and say 'hey where are you from'. I guess my years in Vienna prepared me for the cool and unobtrusive stance. No assumptions!
Pleased as pie I then came home fully soaked, but happy. In the elevator on the way up an American man asked me if I lived here, and I said no just staying. He was very friendly and said he was just staying also.
I really felt my fortune today, the fortune to travel, my early education and my dear friends back home and my family in Europe. Many people I meet have never left their home country and thats ok, but for me, being able to travel is the singular most fantastic thing I think there is to do...seeing how other people live and survive, and what their pre-occupations are.
By no means is everyone here wealthy, I have turned some corners and come across very humble dwellings and there are homeless people about, with their tidy trolleys. I noticed a homeless guy near the station smoking and he had a little ashtray to put his butts in. I am proud to say I have not thrown away a single butt here, and shan't ever do it again anywhere, its about taking personal responsibility. Same with the umbrella bags they provide everywhere, I object to more bags, yes, but if everyone carried their dripping brollies the floors would be soaked.

Sunday Moon.

Read an entire book last night, I needed some English narrative. "The Road" by Cormac McCarthy, it was on the shelf and provided just the escape I was looking for. Had funny dreams but woke up fine and 'seized the day'. The tatami mats show dust and hair especially so I made busy and got the house and myself sorted before heading for a Lion festival in Numabukuro at the Hikawa shrine. I had assumed, yet again that it would be right next to the station. I had my map and even though it wasn't on there, I wasn't going to be deterred. The policeman's box gave me directions and I was on my way. I found it, by hearing the drumming and flute playing, and when I turned the corner the portable shrine carriers were in full swing. The men really do where the g-string nappies, and I saw a lot of butt cheeks. I also saw but couldn't get a photo of a man with strings around his ankles. What does that mean or do?
The shrine grounds were filled with stalls selling all manner of delights. I had a wheat pancake with cabbage and rice crispies in it. Delicious. I got to use a brush to wipe on the sweet soya sauce, and squirted my own mayonnaise design. Watched some very repetitive dance performance and wandered happily. Lots of kid's stalls with all fun things to do and play with. Except I did not like the toy guns for sale, these seemed the most poular. In the rear of the temple was a tent to eat in, and I sat happily there with my pancake, and met two older tiny women who shook my hand and couldn't get over how big my hand was, and it was as big as theirs were small. Behind me, to my delight was a hall where calligraphers were sitting, painting. Oh wow, to see them doing the real do, how incredible. I try sitting cross legged for 10 minutes and I have to move around! They were smoking as well, with big glass ashtrays on the bench next to their papers. I couldn't get over how good and comfortable they all looked, how very real! This was tradition.
I wandered the area which was nice and quiet. Lots of very overgrown areas, the weeds here are insane. So green and fecund, and whispy and just wild.
Felt really happy and replete, made my way home before it rained to get the futons off the balcony, made lovely cold buckwheat noodle salad and some nice green tea. Am practising kneeling. It is a clear night and I saw the moon rise out of the window.

When am I going to learn to bring a map with me?

I keep thinking, oh yes, that looks like I can just turn left and right then left again...well it doesn't work that way. I stupidly didn't write the address down either, even though at one of the places I asked directions at they looked it up on the web and gave me a map, but there were roadworks, and a detour, and there I am in the middle of some suburb, wandering at night, after searching for 4 hours, I gave up, bought beer and deep fried oysters and came home. Feel an absolute failure. Whata ninny.
I had been invited to an opening of Tokyo Wonder Site, in Hongo, and really badly wanted to meet with the people there. Wasn't to be.
Got to see Tokyo dome though and a big baseball match and hundreds and thousands of people and a rollercoaster that went through a building.
This place blows my mind, whenever I step out of the house.
Map next time you twit.
Oh yes, and I saw the full moon rising. Is it full where you are as well?

DAY 14

Really beautiful rain today, very straight lines, quiet but offering a muffling effect, which helped me sleep in. I have seen a Hokusai print of the rain, and it captures it exactly.
Went for a walk trying to find a stance of trees that I could see from my window. I found this beautiful park up a hill, with windy paths and completely deserted except for the cats, fish and birds. Heard the strangest bird sound ever. The green was amazing, and there was a mist over the water, so intense and still. I savoured the smells of the earth and leafy energy, meandering around each path way in delight. The biggest trees I have seen in Tokyo yet, all with little benches to sit on.
There was a shrine nearby and it started really pouring, so I stayed under it's shelter for a little while, savouring the solitude.
Feel very Zen today. I saw someone the other day hanging their washing out on the roof, and the time and effort it took, but what an immaculate job they ended up doing. Towels and sheets perfectly hung, very balanced composition and colours. Yesterday on the train I stood at the back, where you look through the guard's compartment and out their big window at where you were. The compartment was so utilitarian, and the guard so immaculate and precise with his movements. Bless his heart, the telephone cord was coiled just so, everything in it's place. The only personal item was his spectacles case, with a floral decoration. It's touches like that that surprise and amaze me. People have little holders for all and sundry, their books have a pocket, theres a folder for their pass and another for their phone. Every phone has dangly bits hanging off of it! I guess it personalises it, and makes it easier to grab hold of?
I feel so messy in contrast.
Tomorrow I am going to an opening party in Hongo.

TO COMMENT!

PRESS PREVIEW FIRST, THEN PUBLISH! GOOD LUCK!

DAY 13

Best day ever, went to the Edo-Tokyo Museum, which is next door to the Sumo stadium. As warned, Sumo wrestlers were wandering around, airing their ankles. I am furious with myself for just missing the last championship, and there will be no more bouts in Tokyo, perhaps I will have luck elsewhere. I am hooked. I am in love!
Let me xplain that the big fat baby men are looking GOOD, wandering in their cotton kimonos, and wooden flip flops...hair slicked back, very clean shaven and smelling like heaven. I don't know who gets to massage the sweet coconut, jasminey, tuberose oils into their big lucious bodies, but I want to do it! They sort of waddle, well, the bigger ones do, with their legs well apart, maybe they are wearing that nappy thing for their training, but its a massive, impressive sight, and I could not control my big grin. They leave a wake of their scent as they glide gracefully up the streets, their shoes dragging and announcing their arrival. One caught my eye, as I am as big as some of them, and he held my gaze with this beautiful matched grin, for he knew what I was admiring, and he was proud. I followed some around, delirious heart beating. On my way home I had the great pleasure of seeing a couple of hulks leaving McDonalds...oh I have died and gone to heaven. It was really easy to get there, so I think I will be returning, and the Museum was awesome as well, but I am in love!